adventures in minna

a diary of life in minna, nigeria... and a way to keep tabs on me!

Saturday, February 18, 2006

A few of my favourite things...

As most Nigerians speak 2 or 3 languages, and local languages are spoken much more than English, they have some wonderful turns of phrase. Here are some of my favourites...
1... I am coming... actually means I am going away but indicates an intent to return at some point (popular at work!)
2... You have tried very well... actually means You have done very well but I felt a bit hard done by til I understood that!
3... How is today... isn't that just a great greeting!

I am also noticing how odd some 'Irish' English sounds out of context. My favourite to date was receiving a returned survey with "May God help you" in the Any other comments section. Such a withering statement in an Irish accent, and such an uplifting one here!

Mango season...



Mango season has arrived in Minna, and with it all the orchard-robbing fever you'd expect. There are some beautiful old Mango trees behind the library which produce copius amounts of the fruit. So my normally serene corner of the compound is transformed. There's a constant stream of visitors to help themselves to the fruit, and everyone is a little bit happier!!

Keeping busy...



Work has begun in earnest over the past couple of months, and it's nice to be busy! We started with a cleanup operation which involved the removal of inches of dust & cobwebs, generations of bugs & flies, and masses of rubbish being "stored" in the empty library. It is a little more habitable now, but there's all the repainting and refurnishing to look forward to...
Have also been getting out a bit more - visiting local schools and libraries, which brings to whole project to life. The teachers and librarians are full of ideas which make my 2 years seem very short indeed. But it's a great incentive to make this library work!

Tuesday, February 07, 2006

Another point of view...

Niger State, the state I am living in, is ruled by Shari’a Law. This means that the civil laws abide by Islamic principles but as a non-Muslim Shari’a Law is not intended to apply to me. I was reading an interesting article in the paper yesterday – just thought, in light of the recent Hamas electoral victory and unrest over the cartoons of Muhammed, I’d share another perspective with you at home…

The principle of democracy by Hannatu Musawa
(Leadership newspaper 6 Feb 06)

When, two weeks ago, the Palestinian Islamic resistance movement, Hamas, swept to victory democratically and non-violently in an election that saw them claim more than half the total votes the world had a grave foreboding. How could a movement that claims to harbour the desire to wipe out Israel lead the Palestinian government? They could because it was democratically done.
… Ideally in our emerging world, the definition of democracy needs to be replaced so that it no longer represents a particular value system that emerged from the West’s Anglo-American experience. For democracy to completely have a universally applicable value it should not have to be cut from the same mould as America or Britain because their systems stemmed from their own beliefs, history and experience.
… There is an argument that the mould of democracy offered by the West cannot survive in poor countries because those countries lack the preconditions, traditions and cultural attitudes needed for it to thrive. It’s true that poverty, illiteracy and social tensions make the practice of democracy more difficult because the system becomes easier to manipulate.
… Modern democracy as operated in the West drew on certain elements from Western tradition that can be traced all the way back to classical antiquity. If the concept [of democracy] is to succeed all over the world it must be modified on a historical and cultural basis for application in other nations… A classic example is Iraq… The Middle Eastern political systems prefer governments based on Islamic precepts especially in a country like Iraq where the majority have strong Islamic tendencies and are less enthusiastic about liberalism. Now America’s biggest fear in Iraq is that an application of a Western style democracy is bound to produce a replica of the Islamic government of Iran because Iraqis are bound to predominantly vote for a Shari’a government.
… Whether we agree with Hamas or not, we must respect the views and wishes of the Palestinian people… If anything the world should take heed and understand that their votes grew from their experience. So instead of having issues with the choice they made, may the world keep in mind that they voted freely and practiced the principle of democracy the way they were taught by the West.

Wednesday, February 01, 2006

Parklife...


Motor parks are interesting places. The majority of public transport is by bush taxi - big cars with 5-8 seats – or by 10 seater mini-buses. As you arrive at the park there is huge interest in your destination and several people point out the car you want. You agree a seat with the attendant and then wait for the car to fill up (either a long wait which means you got a good seat or a short wait which means you’re stuck in the middle of a tangle of limbs!). Activity abounds as you wait and all sorts of goods are paraded by for your consideration. The motor parks are one of the few places where I’ve encountered begging but it isn’t usually intrusive.
Common sense tells you not to take your camera out in a motor park but on a recent trip to Port Harcourt our hotel overlooked the motor park. So here’s a picture – you can’t really make out the organised mayhem, but you can see how busy it is!

Greeting...

One of the things I found difficult in the early days was greeting. Strict Muslims do not touch members of the opposite sex and it was difficult to suppress my impulse to shake hands on meeting someone new. To be respectful I should wait for a man to offer to shake my hand (its not a really gender issue but a matter of religious respect). Anyway, one of my first meetings with a young colleague involved me forcibly shaking his hand… he reached out to take the bag I was carrying (I realised too late) and, from habit I shook, frightening the life out of him!!
Slightly more difficult (and thankfully rarer) is the belief that it is rude to make eye contact with the person you are speaking to. This always goes against the grain of my Western sensibilities. But everyone has been very patient with me and my rude ways! And in fairness, there is very little that will actually stop a Nigerian from greeting you – they are an incredibly welcoming people…

Getting lost in Kaduna...

I visited a couple of VSOs in Kaduna for the first time this weekend – it is a big city north-east of Minna, about 3 hours away. Another VSO lives 10 mins from the motor park but when I arrived MTN (my mobile phone service provider) was having one of its regular strops and I had no way of phoning him. So after awhile of hoping, in vain, that MTN would sort themselves out I realised I’d have to ask for help. I had no address but I knew that he works (and lives) at the school for the deaf. A lovely motor park attendant got me a taxi and I was in luck – the taxi driver knew where the school was. However after a 10 min drive it turned out there are two schools for the deaf in Kaduna! And, on realising I was looking for a fellow oyibo, my taxi driver piped up – oh no, he’s at the other school for the deaf. Patience isn’t a virtue but a bloody necessity in this country! But he got me to the correct place in one piece (30 mins older and 200N poorer!).